Trailing closely behind Siriano, with nine non-straight-size castings, was Becca McCharen-Tran of Chromat, whose oil-slicked lineup included Emme, Medeiros, Kang, Ericka Hart, Priscilla Huggins Ortiz, Victoria Gomez, Veronica Pomeé, Hayley Foster and Kimberly Drew. Ten plus-size women - Pring, Huffine, Ingrid Medeiros, Chloe Vero, Lee, Abbie Fleener, Alessandra Garcia Lorido, Yvonne Simone, Ashley Graham and Mia Kang - modeled the Project Runway host’s rhinestone-heavy collection. As has historically been the case, Siriano was responsible for a significant chunk (over one-fourth) of the season’s non-straight-size castings.
(In other words, women of all sizes, shapes, ages and ethnicities.)Īs far as designers go (setting aside the 11 Honoré show), Christian Siriano featured more size diversity than any other New York-based brand.
Still, we’d be remiss not to acknowledge the most size-inclusive runway of the season: 11 Honoré’s lineup featured 35 models size 12 and above, among them Candice Huffine, Marquita Pring, Precious Lee, Stella Duval, Tara Lynn and 55-year-old supermodel Emme. Our second concern was consistency: the instantly shoppable, Shopify cosponsored event was a one-off. First, unlike the 77 shows we reviewed, 11 Honoré did not present a singular in-house collection. Note: For multiple reasons, we omitted plus-size luxury retailer 11 Honoré’s multi-designer showcase from our data. Perhaps as disappointing as the decline in plus-size castings is the fact that in recent seasons the roster of designers hiring non-straight-size talent has hardly grown at all. Even so, it was the second-most size-diverse season yet, the first being Spring 2019, the third Spring 2018, which had 34 castings between 12 shows (1.3 percent). After an encouraging Spring 2019 season that saw 49 plus-size models (2.2 percent) walk in a total of 12 shows, Fall 2019 featured only 37 plus-size models (1.7 percent) across - again - 12 runways. Sadly, on the body diversity front, the results were decidedly less optimistic. PLUS-SIZE Sabina Karlsson backstage at Michael Kors Collection Fall 2019 Image: Imaxtree Per tradition, gender, size and age diversity were completely absent from the top 10 list, although one trans model (Massima Lei) did come somewhat close to the cutoff with five runway appearances.Īll in all, New York’s top 10 models serve as further evidence that this was the most inclusive season ever, at least in terms of race. The remainder of the list, which includes Dominican model Anyelina Rosa, Angolan model Blésnya Minher, Gambian model Fatou Jobe and Chinese model He Cong, booked 11. Second place was a four-way tie between Korean model Hyun Ji Shin, Chinese-Nigerian model Adesuwa Aighewi, Chinese model Sijia Kang and East London native Hannah Shakespeare, each of whom booked 12 shows apiece. The exception? Louis Vuitton regular Cyrielle Lalande (of France), who tied Nigerian-born Mayowa Nicholas for the top spot. For Fall 2019, all but one of the season’s 10 most-booked models were women of color. Last season, more than half (seven) of the 11 models who racked up the most New York Fashion Week runway appearances were nonwhite.
TOP MODELS NYFW Fall 2019 top model Mayowa Nicholas Image: Imaxtree What’s more, this is the first season wherein nonwhite models have accounted for over 45 percent of castings and the fifth to see every New York runway show feature at least one model of color. Ten seasons later, the percentage of nonwhite models on the city’s runways has more than doubled. True, that’s only a slight (1 point) increase from Spring 2019’s 44.8 percent, but progress is progress and now that our stats are closing in on the 50 percent mark, there’s less room for monumental leaps and bounds.Īlso, let’s not forget that back in Spring 2015, when we first began tracking runway diversity, New York shows were only 20.9 percent racially diverse. After reviewing 77 major shows and 2,197 model appearances, we found that 45.8 percent of the models cast in New York shows were women of color - in other words, nearly half. Once again, we’re happy to report that the New York Fashion Week runways were more racially diverse than ever before.
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